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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 4:34 pm 
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I have a few rosewood bridge blanks like this one. I like the wavy grain pattern but I'm wondering if the curl would mean a weak glue joint with the top. It's over 8 inches long so if I used it, I could use the left end where the curl is less pronounced. [:Y:] or pfft ?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 4:53 pm 
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I think that you should send me a couple of those bridge blanks for some in depth analysis, Jay. ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 4:57 pm 
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Probably a bit weaker, but you could make it a bit bigger to compensate. Also, you could warm up the bridge and then pre-coat it with thin hide glue, let it dry, give it another light sanding on the guitar to remove any raised grain, and then do the final glue-up. That should clog any exposed endgrain, and give a better mating surface.

I think it would look great on a curly redwood top :) But then your joint is even weaker... but I remember a thread on the AGF where Harvey Leach posted a picture of a curly redwood 12 string with a typical sized bridge, and said it's been fine for over 10 years. So that pretty much confirms that curly joints aren't doomed to fail.

And if you do use curly redwood, do the hide glue pre-coat on that too. As mentioned in this thread, the exposed endgrain of curly redwood can suck up a lot of finish, and therefore would likely do the same to glue.



These users thanked the author DennisK for the post: J De Rocher (Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:46 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:26 pm 
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I love that bridge blank! It looks kinda thin... Is it 3/8"?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:44 pm 
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IMHO no it would not.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:49 pm 
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Thanks for the replies.

Alex - Thanks for the offer, but I'm already fully committed to a full in depth analysis with replication here.

Steve - It's about 7/16ths thick so it'll work.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 6:29 pm 
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J De Rocher wrote:
Thanks for the replies.

Alex - Thanks for the offer, but I'm already fully committed to a full in depth analysis with replication here.

Steve - It's about 7/16ths thick so it'll work.


I thought so! I'm looking forward to seing it on one of your guitars!

Alex

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:39 pm 
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Will likely be just fine, in fact I wonder if the reversing grain might make it less prone to crack under the forces resulting from string tension.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 9:08 pm 
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That is one sweet piece of wood!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 10:53 pm 
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I like that piece. I don't know if this is a good idea for a bridge but what about stabilizing it with shellac? Like one would do with a knife handle or pen blank... You'd need to hold the piece in the shellac under vacuum for 24 hours or better.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:39 am 
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James Ringelspaugh wrote:
Will likely be just fine, in fact I wonder if the reversing grain might make it less prone to crack under the forces resulting from string tension.


I'm not sure what you mean by reversing the grain.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:40 am 
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Rod True wrote:
I like that piece. I don't know if this is a good idea for a bridge but what about stabilizing it with shellac? Like one would do with a knife handle or pen blank... You'd need to hold the piece in the shellac under vacuum for 24 hours or better.


Would the shellac treatment improve the strength of the glue joint?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 12:49 pm 
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I don't know.
What the shellac does though is fuse the wood together internally this strengthening the wood fibres. Don't think it would effect the gluability though.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 2:09 pm 
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Given the vast holding strength of glue vs the relatively light load, I'd wager that as long as you got a good bridge fit, it'll be just fine.



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post: J De Rocher (Fri Nov 13, 2015 4:08 pm)
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